Mar 03 2008

Luca’s Cafe Opens in Locust Point

Published by Glen at 4:08 pm under Uncategorized

Although Luca’s doesn’t yet seem to have a website or menu on the Web yet, the reviews have already started coming in.  And they look pretty good.  Chowhound has some first impressions from customers

One sample review

Luca Cafe Locust Point - First impressions are very good

I went last night, and the place is already buzzing. Nice space, with some interesting art in the upstairs dining area. There were a few glitches with the computer system, and other such, but on the whole a very respectable “just after opening”. They are already much more on track than many places are much longer after opening.

I had two items off the menu, but then, I’m a growing boy. Too bad the growth is now out, rather than up. Oh well.

First up was a veggie pizza. Very thin, crispy crust, of the neapolitan rather than “soda cracker” type. Not exactly like either Joe Squared or Iggies, but I think fans of either of those places will find much to like here. Fans of the doughier, yeastier “Maryland style” pizza crust may not be as happy. The toppings were a wonderful fresh assortment of veggies that made a local critic’s list of thigns that are “not pizza vegetables”. Tough - this was wonderful. squash, zucchini, arugula, onion, and I forget what all else. Everything was very fresh, very high quality, and the balance of flavors and textures was dead on.

The one oddity on the pizza front was that the menu listed five or so variants, but did not imply any sort of “choose your own toppings” option, and I don’t remember seeing a “plain cheese pizza” option that would give one a basic pizza to add toppings to.

The follow-up was “Sam’s Hoagie” which contained “every kind of Italian meat you can think of” with “no ‘F’ mayo!”. The menu description was accurate, but failed to mention a very wonderful roll (ciabatta, maybe?) that the hoagie comes on, or the shavings of hard cheese (Parmesan, Romano, or Grana would be my guess - I’m not enough of a cheese maven to tell which) that topped the sandwich, or the roasted peppers hidden under the various meats. It comes with a batch of very respectable fries. This is a big, well made, satisfying sandwich.

If this is an indication of their approach to sandwiches, those searching for a decent cheesesteak might want to try their rendition. Based on the menu description, they aren’t going for a traditional Philly steak, but it sound good. If the quality of that hoagie carries through, the cheese steak will be a contender. They also offered a chicken salad sandwich that sounded interesting. There was also a “Luca burger” on the menu described as being slow cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and onions. If I’m grasping what they are saying, it sounds like they cook the burgers in the way one would normally cook Italian meatballs. That might make for a very interesting flavor difference.

In all, I give this one a vigorous recommendation. The menu is limited, but has enough variety (there’s also a steak, baked chicken, fish of the day, goulash, and other such) that one should be able to find something of interest. Check it out!

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3 Comments to “Luca’s Cafe Opens in Locust Point”

  1. Glenon 09 Mar 2008 at 3:59 pm

    I have had the chance to stop into Luca’s twice over the past week. I’m glad to have another dining/drinking option within a short walk of my house. Overall I think they have done a great job with the place. The menu is decent, and the quality of food is above average. Definitely not typical pub grub. The renovation they did looks great. It’s a huge upgrade from the former Trumans. Although I’m not sure why they kept the video poker machines. Did they have to for some reason? Keeping those machines seems to clash with the new look and clientele. My wife and I stopped in on Friday for a bite and a couple drinks, and there was a good crowd in attendance.

  2. chrismon 13 Mar 2008 at 4:23 pm

    From http://baltimore.metromix.com:

    First look: Luca’s Café
    Upscale cafe redefines the neighborhood bar
    By Jessica Novak
    Special to Metromix
    March 12, 2008

    Luca’s Café is full of charming contradictions. At the Locust Point bar and restaurant, you can chase a $4 burger with a $200 bottle of Perrier Jouet Fleur de Champagne, or play video poker and slots while feasting on succulent garlic steak.

    Co-owner Lando Orsino looks like the one responsible for those and other inviting contradictions. He’s one of the few males we’ve seen show a little chest and a Brett Michaels cross yet remain classy. Class reveals itself again in his bar-side manner, as well as Luca’s drink selection, décor and cuisine.

    Orsino opened Luca’s—or the Best of Both Worlds, as we’ve decided it should be renamed—in late February with his childhood friend Chris Maler, co-owner of Matthew’s Pizza. The Highlandtown guys named the café after their sons. Look for pictures of the kiddies (both named Luca) on the menus, which appear slightly aged and affixed to dark wood—another detail that makes Luca’s better than other South Baltimore spots.

    Booze: Welcome to the world of not wincing after every sip. Luca’s is the place to learn how drinks are supposed to taste, not how they taste at crap holes. Order anything on the drink menu made from freshly-squeezed fruits. Your drink will take more than a minute to crank out, but it will be worth it. The café’s ultimate margarita ($12) made with lime juice, Patron Silver, Cointreau and Grand Marnier is especially phenomenal.

    Luca’s doesn’t serve draft beer, but even the guy who foams at the mouth during Budweiser commercials won’t mind after trying the café’s homemade orange crush ($7), sangria ($7) or intense vodkas infused with fruit and candy flavors ($8) such as strawberry kiwi and Lemonheads. Winos, don’t worry. Luca’s has 20 varieties of red and white.

    Food: Less like a café and more like a gourmet restaurant, Luca’s serves apps, entrees, pizzas and sandwiches with unique twists. For instance, don’t look for a simple slice of pepperoni, Luca’s pies come with ingredients like shrimp, goat cheese, steak and arugula.

    Portions are substantial. You can eat from Luca’s chop deli salad ($12) for about three days. But before you get yourself all hot and bothered about gorging, make sure you read Luca’s ingredient lists closely. Otherwise, the magical salad, overflowing with a log of Italian meats and a bushel of sweet peppers, eggs and iceberg lettuce, might shock you and birth a giant shrimp or two right before your eyes.

    Beyond the shrimps, Luca’s also surprises with its dip, creatively named the dip ($6). Served with unbelievably soft bread, it consists of reggiano mascarpone cheese, basil pesto, jumbo lump crab and roasted shallots. Don’t think of the dip as a traditional, creamy crab dip and you’ll be OK. Luca’s dip stars spices not crab flavor. Try the fold ($12), Luca’s version of a meatball and sausage calzone, if you like your dough thin, your ricotta in small doses and your sausage sweet. The meat is as tender as Coldplay’s Chris Martin.

    Digs: When you walk into Luca’s, you’ll inevitably decide you like it. Orsino, a self-proclaimed “plant guy,” decorated Luca’s with lots of greens (including pineapple trees) in addition to various items one might find at a European bazaar and works from local artists. One of three flat screens can be seen from any seat at the long bar, but placed beside fresh flowers, baskets of lemon and limes and beautiful brown cabinets, they don’t demand your attention. BTW: Ladies you need to check out the exquisite bathroom. With its colorful, flattering lighting, you’ll like the way you look in there.

    Crowd: In its first few weeks, Luca’s has attracted mostly Locust Point locals. On a steady Sunday, couples and double dates crowded the bar and lower level dining room. Most patrons could ask for AARP discounts, but an equal number of ladies and gents were in their late 20s and mid-30s and wore sports coats or sweatshirts.

    Bottom line: Luca’s bills itself as “the best joint in the Point,” which even SoBo pot dealers would agree is accurate.

  3. Glenon 13 Mar 2008 at 4:39 pm

    That’s a pretty good review - but I do have a problem with this statement.

    “Luca’s doesn’t serve draft beer, but even the guy who foams at the mouth during Budweiser commercials won’t mind after trying the café’s homemade orange crush ($7), sangria ($7) or intense vodkas infused with fruit and candy flavors ($8) such as strawberry kiwi and Lemonheads.”

    Those foo foo drinks are hardly a substitute or alternative for draft beer.

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